HarrySkywalker

[Purpmonkey]

Room temp:68-75
Humidity: 50%
Rez temp:68.2
Rez ph: 5.8
Rez ppm: 762
Tap water: 60 ppm
Nutrients: 60/120 GH micro/bloom 4 ml ph up

The flush started at 81 ppm with 60 of that being the tap water and finished after 12 hours at 125 ppm so I believe that it had some slight build up that was alleviated by the flush. Now only the other pheno looks to be having the claw leaf. Here's a few picture from right before the light goes out.


GT, I'm still considering buying a bottle of aquashield do you think this would be beneficial to the grow?

[GrowTutor]

GT, I'm still considering buying a bottle of aquashield do you think this would be beneficial to the grow?

I went to the Botanicare website to check out what's in it and they don't even list it anymore so maybe it's discontinued? I'd just add some compost tea with mycorrhizae or something like "Orca" if you don't want to make your own; there must be a reason they don't sell it anymore. *shrug*

[Purpmonkey]

Room temp: 68-75
Humidity:48-58%
Rez temp: 68.1
Rez ph: 5.8
Rez level: 10 gal
Rez ppm: 759 NaCi


I have not needed to top anything off yet, should my ppm be expected to go down or stay around the same until I added back in water? Also if I add orca to my Rez should I avoid the h2o2 ? Does the orca mix well or will it end up sitting on the bottom? The last time I tried mykos it all seemed to just settle to the bottom

[GrowTutor]

PPM can vary depending on plant uptake; sometimes it goes up, sometimes down.

Peroxide can kill the beneficial stuff too so I'd try it without first and see if you need it later. Orca is a liquid so it should mix fine.

You may have used the granulated myco instead of the powder or not mixed it well. If you make worm casting tea you can brew the myco with the castings and then you just add the liquid tea to the reservoir...

[Purpmonkey]

Here's the past couple of days info temps have been steady, I've also started rotating the EG, to try and equalize from the loss of LEDs in the panel on the right. It must be a controller that went out because all of the LEDs were red and in groupings of five in all corners....really disappointed in that and I believe for the cost of the upgrade to a ss440 it would cost about as much as everything else I need to get my solis tek ballast up and running.


Room temp: 68-77
Humidity: 40-55%
Rez temp: 65-68
Rez ph: 5.8
Rez level: 9.5
Rez ppm: 776


Room temp:68-77
Humidity: 40-58%
Rez temp: 65-68
Rez ph: 5.8
Rez level: 9.0
Ppm before adding tap water:795
After: 1.5 gals ppm:700

Room temp:68-77
Humidity:40-54%
Rez temp: 65-69
Rez ph:5.7
Rez level:9.5
Ppm before:725
Ppm after 1.0 gal tap: 650



Tonight....

Room temp: 70-78
Humidity: 50%
Rez temp: 65-68
Rez initial ph: 5.5
Added: 5ml ph up
Current Rez ph: 5.7
Ppm before: 645
Ppm after: 660
H2o added: .25 gal
Final ppm: 650
Rez level: 10 gal

[GrowTutor]

I've also started rotating the EG, to try and equalize from the loss of LEDs in the panel on the right. It must be a controller that went out because all of the LEDs were red and in groupings of five in all corners....really disappointed in that and I believe for the cost of the upgrade to a ss440 it would cost about as much as everything else I need to get my solis tek ballast up and running.

Rotating is a good idea, sounds like the LED driver/psu died. Technically, you don't have to pay for an upgrade, it's still under warranty and they *have* to do something about it. Make them fix it if you don't want to pay more. A hood and fan should cost much less than $400. It's up to you...

[Purpmonkey]

They said they will fix it but they have no refurbished to send me as a temporary replacement so as to not interupt my cycle. The upgrade is resonable it's only $279 for the upgrade but I could by the hood and bulb for that amount. So they said I would have to wait for a refurbished light or send mine when I can not really what I wanted to hear but there's really nothing I can do about that, although it will probably end up with me moving to an hps when I have the funds to do so. Would I have to have another fan or could I just attach with a Y piece and a duct boosting fan and of course ducting?

[GrowTutor]

I always recommend a dedicated fan just for the light so you can cycle the ventilation/odor control fan on/off as needed. Most hoods are 6"-8" and the bigger the fan the more you can slow it down (with a fan controller) to keep noise down.

You also want a circulation (oscillating is most common) fan for either LED or HID grows.